top of page

The Hemline Index: From Fashion to Finance

Within a capitalist-driven society, unconventional theories run rampant within discussions surrounding the predictions of economic trends. A quirky, yet curious, measure is the Hemline Index, rumored to have been coined by economist, George Taylor in the early 1920’s. Taylor claims that the length of womens’ skirts, or hemlines, either rise or fall in correlation to stock prices. More specifically, skirt lengths will get shorter during times of economic prosperity, and longer during economic lows. 


Theorists noted that post-WW1, the average height of a woman’s dress above the ground was ten percent of a woman’s height (Wisniewski). Later, at the start of the roaring 20s, this length grew to 20%, continuing to rise until 1924, during which hemlines met above the knee (Wisniewski). The Great Stock Market Crash of 1929, which caused a financial collapse and depression, saw hemlines dropping significantly, sinking to ground level (Wisniewski). Historically, the hemline index has been regarded as a playful and sometimes surprisingly accurate predictor of economic shifts. However, as society evolves with an increased emphasis on self-expression, feminism’s impact on women’s roles within society, and the rise of gender fluidity, it leads me to question if the Hemline Index can continue to remain an accurate predictor of the modern economy. 


Taylor argues that the rationale behind this correlation between stock prices and hemlines is rooted in psychology, being that during times of economic prosperity, designers may opt for shorter hemlines as a reflection of optimism and confidence. Conversely, in times of economic downturn, longer skirts may become more fashionable as a symbol of conservatism and a desire to avoid unnecessary risk. Historically, expectations of women’s societal norms extended to their fashion choices. This encouraged women to dress in styles that were often dictated by cultural expectations and the desire to reflect their husband’s status. For example, longer hemlines, conservative styles, and subdued fashion were indicative of a woman’s role as a reflection of her husband’s standing in society. However, with the shifting role of women within society during modern times to be more independent and self-sufficient, the psychological determinants of whether women should decide to wear long or short skirts, may no longer be accurate. As society has evolved, women’s financial anxieties are no longer attributed to their husbands. Women are now encouraged to pursue education and careers, which further allows them to express themselves through fashion in ways that transcend traditional expectations. 


Similarly, the evolving landscape of gender identity and expression has challenged traditional norms, including those embedded in fashion, allowing individuals of any gender to wear previously female-dominated items including skirts. With an increasing recognition of gender as a spectrum rather than a binary, individuals are dismantling the traditions of gendered fashion. This fluidity challenges the Hemline Index’s reliance on a binary view of gender and its narrow focus on women’s clothing. Fashion has developed as a powerful tool for challenging and breaking gender stereotypes. Furthermore, the Hemline Index implicitly assumes a heteronormative perspective where gender roles are tied to binary expectations. Therefore, with the growing fluidity of gender expression, and the evolving individuality of women, the Hemline Index may no longer accurately reflect the realities of contemporary relationships with fashion through self-expression. 


References

Wisniewski, Walter. “What You Should Know about the Hemline Index: Finance Blog.” Arcadia Wealth Management, 29 July 2019, arcadiawm.com/hemline-index/


Opmerkingen


bottom of page